Disobedience

Stuffed Roast Pigeons, Squabs or Poussins
with Chicken Liver Stuffing

Serves 4-8

Stuffing gives a dish an air of celebrations. The traditional Jewish stuffing for all kinds of birds, which is used throughout Eastern Europe, is mashed potato or matzo meal with onions fried in goose fat, sometimes flavoured with a touch of ginger or paprika, garlic or parsley, and embellished with the livers or with sliced mushrooms. The sumptuous chicken liver stuffing used in this recipe is from Alsace. It is so delicious that it makes the effort of stuffing worthwhile, which other stuffings frankly do not. In Alsace, foie gras, which originated in the Jewish community, is often used instead of chicken livers and truffles are sometimes added.

Use only the Mediterranean-type baby pigeonneaux: otherwise use squabs or poussins. My guests cannot usually manage a whole poussin if it is part of a 3-course meal, so I cut the poussins in half when serving.

4 pigeonneaux, squabs or poussins
4 tablespoons oil
juice of 1 lemon
salt and pepper

For the stuffing
250g (9oz) chicken livers, fresh or frozen, defrosted slowly
2 small slices of hallah bread, crusts removed
3 egg yolks
4 tablespoons cognac
2 tablespoons oil or chicken fat
salt and pepper

First prepare the stuffing: to kosher chicken livers, sear them briefly under the grill on both sides until the colour changes. Soak the bread in water to cover, then squeeze dry. Put it in the food processor with the livers, egg yolks, cognac, oil or fat and salt and pepper and blend to a cream (don't worry, it will firm up when it is baked).

Now rub the birds with oil, lemon, salt and pepper. Using a pointed dessertspoon, fill the cavities through the tail opening with the stuffing. Then close the opening with a toothpick or sew it up with a needle and thread.

Roast in a preheated 425°F/220°C/gas 7 oven for 30-45 minutes, or until they are browned and the juices no longer run pink when you cut into the thigh with a pointed knife. If serving halves, cut down through the breastbone on one side of its keel with a large, very sharp carving knife, using a strong, steady pressure.

Variation
I love the stuffing as it is, with a pronounced taste of cognac, but an alternative flavouring is a pinch of nutmeg and 2 tablespoons of very finely chopped parsley.